The Physics of Ocean Waves

Ocean Wave Physics

Ocean waves at their simplest are energy moving through water. However, they are actually considered a special type of wave, called orbital progressive waves.  This means that the water molecules actually form a circular pattern, and ripple progressively outward.  The water molecules themselves are actually not moving very far during an ocean wave, is is the energy that is changing locations. 

What causes waves? 

Good question.   For the most part, the waves in the ocean are caused by the wind pushing against the water. A strong wind can actually transfer energy to the water, and causes whitecaps and peaks.  After time, these will become waves.   The more strong wind there is, the larger the waves, which is why people go surfing right after storms.  

Large waves that travel far from their origin are called swell waves, and they can be used to harness energy. Since the water is a medium for transferring energy, rather than water, the energy of ocean waves can be used to create power. 

Basic Equation for Waves: 

 h(x,t) = Asin (2πx/ L − 2πt/ T )

L = wavelength

T = Period

H = height

A = amplitude